RESIZE and REFRAME a DRY ERASE BOARD

Months ago, I bought a large metallic dry erase board at Costco for $20. It included markers, magnets, and eraser, which is a pretty good deal. The plan was to use it in the office, but when I got it home I suddenly realized I didn’t want a giant dry erase board with our notes and scribbles hanging on the wall for all to see. (Also, a large white surface is somehow very inviting to a 21 month old!) So… Plan B became to “hide” the board in the office closet.

NOTE: the office is still a work-in-progress, but we’re taking it one little project at a time. The only movement that’s happened since the last closet office post was that we organized, removed the chair mat and huge black office chair, and hung up our diplomas. I’m itchin’ to build a custom desk to replace the sofa-back-table-desk, but that might be awhile. More planning, time, and cash-o-lah will be needed for that project.

Anyway, back to Plan B: The closet office is where I do most of my computer work, so it made sense to have a dry erase board within arm’s length of the desk. The 3′ x 2′ board wouldn’t fit on the back wall (even if I hadn’t hung the diplomas.) The only other real estate was the back of the closet doors. All we needed to do was split the board in half and reframe the two new pieces! And since my Dad has the ultimate workshop, I suckered him into helping me with my little project. He is such a goofball….

GoofballDad1

RESIZE THE BOARD

Cutting

1. Unscrew aluminum frame from board.
2. Remove aluminum frame from board. (We used chisel and rubber mallet, which worked well.)
3. Discard aluminum frame. (We had no use for it, so we recycled it.)
4. Use painters’ tape on front and back of board to minimize damage along cutline.
5. Use jigsaw to cut board in half.
6. Remove painters’ tape to reveal clean cutline.

REFRAME THE BOARD

Reframing

1. Measure the board’s perimeter to determine how much framing material is needed. (We needed 16′-0″ for our two boards.) We used something similar to this from Menards.
2. Cut each side’s border to length. (Ideally, I would’ve liked to miter joint the corners, but we didn’t buy extra material to cover any errors, so we went the safe route and just did a clean, right angle cut. Also, since we were hanging the boards vertically, we weren’t going to see the exposed ends from the side– as seen in third picture above.)
3. Paint the frame. It took two coats and then a quick layer of polyacrylic for a protective, slight sheen.
4. Use wood glue to secure each frame piece to board. I used large rubber bands during dry-time to hold the frames in place.
5. Since the back of the board wasn’t exactly flush with the back of the frame (and we needed it to be flush to fasten board to door with command strips), we cutdown some Home Depot paint stir sticks and glued them to the back.
6. Add command strips.
7. Hang your newly sized and framed dry erase boards!

Installation

$20 dry erase board + $12 wood frame material = $32 total cost. (This is obviously not including wood glue, command strips, paint, or any other tools used, but since we already owned or were able to borrow all of that, we were able to keep the cost down.) I’m pleased with the finished product. We now have “his and hers” boards for us each to mark-up as we please. Yay for lists and organization! (No, I can’t tone down the nerd-factor.)

HisAndHers

It wasn’t the most exciting project in the world, but I definitely feel more “together” with my list of projects at my fingertips. Thanks for helping me out, Dad!

Cheers to my parents today on their 30th Anniversary! You two are the definition of “love” and I look up to you in every way.

Lovebirds

You Might Also Like

No Comments

    Leave a Reply